OIST Climbing Club
Welcome to the OIST climbing club!
We are a group of rock climbers (bouldering and sport climbers) at OIST. We run a small bouldering wall at the top of faculty road, a couple minutes walk from Lab1, plus we have a community and share invitations to climb at the local gyms and outdoor climbing areas.
Submit a membership application (in the bar on the left), or get hold of us on facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/260842224382107/ if you want to join us
Use of our wall requires a quick tutorial session (5-10 minutes) guided by one of our senior members, and signing a safety waiver. After that, you can access the wall whenever you want.
Currently we don't have any fees related to the use of our club, but we may ask for donations from time to time, to repair the wall, get more gear, or even expand the wall. These donations are entirely voluntary, but should be kept in mind if you want to use the gear and wall heavily.
Areas for climbing around Okinawa:
There are multiple indoor gyms, Boulbaka 1 and 2, Coral Rock, Koru Piki, Banjat, Look Rock and Dbouldering
Boulbaka 2: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Boulbaka2/976885722373299?fref=ts
(also for reference, this is their slab https://i.imgur.com/jnlPIQ7.gifv)
The boulbakas are the more traditional bouldering gyms in Okinawa. They offer the highest set grade of bouldering, plus a good overall range of routes. In general, I find their setting to be a little inconsistent, with some rated harder than they should be, and some easier than they should be, by several grades. Their style tends to focus on large volumes and slopers. Entry is 500yen per hour, plus a bit of tax
Koru Piki: https://www.facebook.com/KORUPIKI/
One of the more popular gyms near Ginowan, has monthly problems and routes are regularly reset. Setting is good and reasonably consistent in terms of grade, and it can get busy at peak times. Entry is 500yen per hour, or 1500 for all day (tax included)
Coral Rock: https://www.facebook.com/coralgym/?fref=ts
The original gym in Okinawa, although now in a new location, the setting here is excellent if a little confusing. Holds tend to be a little less expensive and new and the routes are set only once per year. The style is varied, but probably has the most crimpy/outdoor style routes of all the Okinawan gyms. Coral Rock also has the only indoor roped climbs in Okinawa, and their setting of these routes is very nice and varied. If you are into sport climbing, this is a must. There is a 1500yen joining fee, added to your entry fee for your first visit, which is annoying. Regular entry is 7000yen for 6 entries
Physically the largest bouldering gym and the only one north of OIST in Nago city. Pretty new and good setting, probably the most pleasant to spend a day in.
The nearest to OIST (15 minute drive ish). Monthly problems and reasonably often reset, but physically smaller so you can run out of things to climb faster than in other gyms. Setting is a nice mix of comp/outdoor styles and has the best stocked shop, especially if you like scarpa shoes (which I do)
The newest gym on the island, a chain that has some gyms on mainland as well. Pretty far away from oist in Naha city, and the most modern/competetion style of setting and slightly more expensive. Has a moonboard and a pretty good training section. Also gives a discount in the neighbouring banana juice shop which is nice. Physically pretty small, despite claiming to be the largest on the island (which is actually Banjat, followed by Coral Rock, followed by Boulkaba 2, then Dboulder)
Places to buy gear (including shoes)
All the gyms in Okinawa have some shoes for purchase, but these are often limited in number and variety (usually to the high end shoes for people that basically live at the gym).
Otherwise NEOS and Montbell are the two stores I know that carry a good(ish) range of climbing equipment.
Carries a range of brands and has arguably the most extensive range of gear, but that isn't saying much.
Montbell (Rycom Mall, by the sports store)
Carries only Red Chili shoes, and mostly zeropoint gear. Their selection is a little limited for shoes but for people that like Red Chili, this will be perfect. Also the best stocked for slings/carabiners/etc. Probably would recommend as the first stop for gear (that isn't shoes) on the island.
Otherwise, I have used BananaFingers https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/
for shoes and found them very good. They ship here for cheap and they have a very good sizing guide that gives you the correct size shoe, based on other climbing shoes that have fit you before. It's not what I recommend for your first pair, but it's a good way to get a second.
Look Rock has a shop with shoes/chalkbags/misc stuff, and theres a catalog you can nicely ask Moromi-san to order you things from which has a decent selection.
New shop I just found, in Japan!